Archive: 31. July 2017

HAuer-5402

3 big walls | 2 flights | 1 day | no rope

On the morning of August 8th 2016, I embarked on my adventure with a few essentials: my small paraglider, a light paragliding harness, my climbing shoes, a jacket, a pair of thin gloves, a headband and my chalk bag. My brother Matthias helped me as a supporter, watched me from the valley ground, looked where I’ve landed after every flight to provide me food and drinks.

In the cave, 15 minutes below Marmolada Southface, we had spent the night. While Matthias was still in his sleeping bag, I started up the “Vinatzer / Messner” and reached Punta Rocca after two hours of climbing. I took my wing flew down and landed on the ski slope above Canazei. The “Abramkante” should be the route on Piz Ciavazes Southface. Around noon I was at the end of this climb and crossed the Sella range by hiking over to Rifugio Pisciadu. There was my second take off. Unfortunately I already had to land in Corvara. The strong wind didn’t allow me to get any further. I felt already very tired and it was difficult for me to get the concentration to the right point when I started the long hike. Finally after many hours I reached the start of my last climb “Große Mauer“ on Sass dla Crusc Westface. At that moment I knew that I had already crossed my usual limit. The crux pitch felt not easy anymore and while climbing the famous flake traverse I was yearning for the end oft the route. After the final crack I felt relieved to see Matthias sitting on the rim waiting for me. He looked calm and relaxed, while I felt tired and exhausted. After 15 minutes walking we reached the summit of Sass dla Crusc together.

Twelve hours, three big faces of the Dolomites, two flights, many meters in the gravel and two brothers who enjoyed the sunset with three cans of beer on the summit of Sass dla Crusc. This was the day I had been thinking about in the past three years.

 

Video Clip:

 

Facts and Pictures:
6:15 Start bivouac
6:30 Start Free Solo “Vinatzer/Messner” (800m/UIAA 6+)
8:30 Summit Marmolada Punta Rocca
8:45 Start flight #1
9:15 Start hiking #1
10:45 Start Free Solo “Abramkante” (500m/UIAA 7-)
12:00 End of route
12:00 Start hiking #2 to Pisciadu Hut
13:15 Start flight #2
14:00 Start hiking #3
17:15 Start Free Solo “Große Mauer” (300m/UIAA 7-)
18:00 End of route
18:15 Summit Sass dla Crusc

Approx. 33km of distance, 3600 vertical meters. Combining the three elements of climbing, flying and hiking with a minimum of equipment. Free solo and with a lightweight wing in a 18l backpack on my back (no stashed gear).

 

June Afternoon. © Elias Holzknecht

June Afternoon – New multipitch in Ötztal

Finally I’ve freed my old multipitch project in Ötztal calling it June Afternoon. This five pitches long sport climb located on the right side of the Nösslachwand offers some great climbing on incredible good rock smoothed by the glacier thousands of years ago.

More importantly than the overall difficulties is the beauty of the fifth and final pitch, an 8a which is without doubt one of the most beautiful in the entire valley. The Nösslachwand hosts a series of other multipitch sport climbs, most of them far easier, ideal for spring, autumn and cool summer days.

Thanks to everyone who was up there with me this and over the last years, when I was trying the line occasionally. Also High Five to my longtime buddy Thomi. Together we’ve explored this piece of rock nine years ago during our crazy time on and off the walls.

Facts – June Afternoon (8b/+, 150m):
P1: 8b/+, 35m
P2: 5a, 20m
P3: 7c, 30m
P4: 7a, 25m
P5: 8a, 20m

Approach:
From the parking lot Nösslachwand, just before the village Au/Längenfeld, take a small path on the right side before the road gate. This will lead you directly up to the base and central part of the wall. After ten minutes follow the cairns to the left, move up a short fixed rope, traverse far left and climb up some easy slabs to a small ledge (approx. 25 minutes).

Descent:
Abseil back down the route. From the second belay abseil off directly to a hidden belay stance. From there one more rap back to the ledge.

Gear:
10 quickdraws, 70m single rope