New Ötztal Climbs


»Nordstau« – New Route

I carried out the new climb »Nordstau« (WI5-/M5) on 19 January 2018 with Tobias Holzknecht up Burgsteiner Wand, a 200m high face close to Längenfeld in the Ötztal valley. The route crosses and consequently uses two bolts of a summer route, but then continues independently via increasingly difficult terrain past some cool moves on ice, rock and frozen grass. Apart from the two initial bolts, the five pitches need protecting and we removed the only peg we’ve used.


»Innerer Hahlkogel Northface« – First Winter Ascent

After having climbed the Northface of »Hahlkogel« four years ago in winter, the North Face of »Innerer Hahlkogel« has always been on my list of things to do during the cold season. Local climbers attempted it in the past, but the problem is that the face is really slabby, never particularly steep. It’s hard to find good ice conditions, and much of the climbing is on slabs, past thin cracks or small edges. Simon Messner and I repeated the climb »Untauglich 02«, a summer route graded UIAA VII- which I freed in 2002 with Matthias Nössig. We came prepared for a bivouac, but in the end we managed to climb the face in a single day.


Enjoy 60 seconds of this adventurous climb.

Innerer Hahlkogel Nordwand – first winter ascent from Hansjörg Auer on Vimeo.


NOTE: New movie »No Turning Back« 

There is only one person you will have to bear for the rest of your life: yourself. That’s why being alone is so difficult. Even in the mountains, and not just because of safety. Being alone strips you naked, it makes you understand who you are, what is your value, the things that matter in life. This is the story of Hansjörg Auer.

Enjoy an insight view of my life as a climber and alpinist.